October - December - 2025

Welcome to the Fall edition of The VINE - your new seasonal companion for inspiration, discovery, and all things green. Here in our Zone 9 gardens, fall isn’t a time for winding down - it’s one of the best seasons to dig in and start fresh. The air cools (a little!), the light softens, and plants finally get a break from summer heat.

In this issue, you’ll find inspiration for late-season color, tips for fall planting, and refreshing tired containers. So whether you're tending a window box, a host of containers, or a sprawling backyard, we’re glad you’re here to grow with us.



Kim Ashley, CHS Board Member and VINE Editor

Susan Epstein and Beverly Rivers, Contributors

Every Lowcountry gardener should consider making room in their ‘shade’ garden for one of the ornamental species being hybridized in the genus Mahonia, This plant offers architectural structure and texture to the often overlooked ‘back rooms’ in the garden, where shade to partial shade conditions seriously limit the palette of available plants of merit.

Fall is the perfect time to think about the value of adding Mahonia to your garden. We will not dive into the controversies among botanists as to the correct botanical name here, but let’s at least mention that persuasive arguments exist for naming this grouping of plants Berberis instead of Mahonia. Berberis have thorns, and most Mahonias have spines on the tips of their compound leaves, so we can agree that neither is soft and inviting to the gardener.

The Mahonia, however, is well worth the discomfort. Most hybrids grow upwards to 10’, but tall stems can be thinned out and removed, or a cut can be made above one of the segments at a side-branching shoot to reduce height and increase width. While structure, texture, and form can often be enough to attract a plant to our gardens, the mahonias’ tight clusters of bright yellow tubular flowers on sturdy stems, which emerge from the center of each stem, add a fourth dimension, a brightening glow in the shade to semi-shade garden at a time of year when most blooming plants are done.

The pollinators look forward to this generous supply of nectar, and in early summer, the birds feast on the clusters of blue black berries. Although these ornamental mahonias are not native, studies have supported their limited but important value to our local ecosystem. Cultivars to explore include: ‘Marvel’, ‘Charity’, and ‘Winter Sun’.

The only species of mahonia with soft, gardener-friendly foliage is M. eurybracteata. To be more precise, a naturally occurring mutation of this species was isolated in Georgia in 2001 and given the name ‘Soft Caress’.

Since its introduction to the nursery trade in 2006, it has become a favorite of all who perennially search for a ‘better’ plant. It tolerates sun and shade, it peaks out at 3-4’ tall and wide, it is easily pruned lower and fuller, it appears to have minimal insect or disease challenges, it blooms in the ‘off season’ of early winter and produces lovely blue berries which so far have proven seedless so there is no threat of ‘spread to the wild’. So far, a ‘better’ plant for sure.

Alleluia, Summer is in our rear view mirror! The garden welcomes us back to work, play, design, redesign, evaluate and edit. As our trees and shrubs shed their leaves and the perennials and annuals either go to rest or are pulled, the garden reveals its bones and allows for critical study. Consider

both major and minor changes and use this ideal season to execute them.

The only task off limits is severe pruning - wait until February for that. A satisfying to-do list includes:

• Leave the fallen leaves in place to compost slowly, enrich your soil, reduce the need to add any fertilizers, and offer soft landings for the insects that complete their life cycle by falling from tree canopies and safely burrowing under the garden debris on the ground.

• Dig and remove plants that have become chronically weak and sick and require extraordinary measures to stay alive - chances are their cultural environment has changed over time. They are not getting the growing conditions they need. Not taking action prolongs the agony.

• Seize this season to rearrange plants within a bed, and edit those no longer contributing to its overall pleasing composition. Trees don’t move easily, nor is their removal to be done lightly, but nothing should be off the table when it comes to improving the visual pleasure and, most importantly, the long-term resilience and health of parts of a garden. For example, is this the year to remove that water oak that has been aging out and becoming dangerous? It likely means relocating many shade-loving understory plants that will not thrive in this sunnier exposure, but embrace this as an opportunity to freshen up, renew, and even add more natives to support critical wildlife. Remember that, 2-3 months in advance of moving an established garden shrub or small tree, it is recommended to begin pruning around its drip line to stimulate active new root growth, which will support the plant in its new location.

• Continue to monitor watering of any new or moved plants. Despite the cooler mornings and evenings, the midday sun is still strong and drying.

• Rush to place your bulb orders before the best are sold out for the season (see bulb article below) and make a plan to plant them in late November/early December. Fall’s warmer temperatures require a later planting plan than recommended in the bulb catalogs.

• Now is the time to purchase and plant the annuals (digitalis, anemones, snapdragons, violas, ornamental cabbages and greens, and winter herbs) you want to enjoy in the Spring. Do not wait for March and April. Our temperatures in the Spring can heat up quickly, and freshly planted annuals will not have had time to develop the strong root systems necessary to support that heat stress. Also, it is rare for our winter temps to dip so low as to kill the plant.

BULBS: Nature's Complete Package

Bulbs are one of nature’s little miracles. Inside each one is everything it needs—roots, shoots, leaves, and the promise of flowers. All we have to do is pop them in the ground, add water, and off we grow! If you haven’t ordered yet, don’t wait—the best ones always sell out early.

And remember, bulbs look best in big groups, so order extra! Most catalogs give a break on 50 or 100 at a time—don’t be shy. Many bulbs come pre-chilled and should be planted soon after receiving them. They can be stored in the refrigerator for a short while. One word of warning: never store bulbs with apples. Apples give off ethylene gas, which makes

bulbs age too fast, shrivel, or sprout before their time.

Planting Made Simple: Plant them about three times as deep as the bulb is tall—root side down, pointy side up. Water well and wait for the magic. Bone meal is often recommended, but our soil is rich in phosphorus, so it can usually be

skipped. Bone meal can also attract dogs or critters. Use Thanksgiving to Christmas as a general rule of thumb for planting bulbs in the Lowcountry.

Unless specified, most bulbs want full sun to reach their full potential. If yours have crept into the shade, move them now or in spring. After blooming, let the leaves fade naturally—don’t braid, tie, or rubber them as this prohibits photosynthesis. To hide the mess, tuck bulbs in with perennials like salvia, ajania, or daylilies.



A Few of Our Favorites

• Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) – Perfect for gifts for the holidays, so order as soon as possible because most companies sell out. They bloom about six to eight weeks after planting. After the blooms are spent, plant them in containers or the ground outside once the chance of frost has passed. They will live happily ever after and should bloom each April for you.

• Tulips (Tulipa spp.) – Gorgeous but fleeting. Enjoy them, then toss them in the compost pile. Species tulips will hang on a few years, but even those will go by the wayside eventually.

• Heirloom Snowflakes (Leucojum aestivum) – Sweet little white blooms with bell-shaped flowers that hang in graceful clusters. Long bloom time from late February to early April. Leucojum ’Gravetye Giant’ is a fine substitute for Galanthus, which we cannot grow due to our warm climate.

• Spanish Bluebells ‘Excelsior’ (Hyacinthoids Hispanic ‘Excelsior’) – Lovely in big drifts. Very shade-tolerant. They start poking up in February and bloom through March.

• African Hosta (Drimiopsis maculata) – Not a hosta at all but a scilla. Spotted leaves, white-green flowers, happy in dry shade. March bloomer.

• Byzantine Gladiolus (Gladiolus communis ‘byzantine’) – Only about two feet tall, magenta to cerise with a white stripe. No staking needed. Hard to find, but with the effort! Bloom mid-April.

• Paperwhites – Since they come pre-chilled, they are easy to force for holiday blooms, making them a lovely holiday or hostess gift. Start a pot each week in October for a succession of blooms. Plant 6-10 bulbs per pot (depending on the pot size) in a pot with no holes. Be mindful of watering- too much will cause rot, and too little will cause them to dry out. To keep them from getting too leggy, give them full sun. Once the blooms fade, plant in a sunny location in the garden, and you will be rewarded each November with early blooms.

• Daffodils (Narcissus spp.) — Spring’s Cheerleaders Daffodils are part of most of our childhood memories, and every garden needs them. Plant different varieties for blooms from February through April. They love the sun, don’t mind being divided, and the deer leave them alone. Narcissus is the genus, and daffodil is the common name, so don’t let the nomenclature fool you. They are the same with so many choices!

Charleston Horticultural Society used to offer a bulb sale every November, and the following are some of their suggestions, along with a few of our favorites:

February Bloomers

• ‘Avalanche’ – Yellow petals, orange cup
• ‘February Gold’- Yellow petals
• ‘Saint Keverne’ – Classic all-yellow

March Bloomers

• ‘Delibes’- Crinkled orange and yellow cup surrounded by buttercup yellow petals
• ‘Erlicheer’ – Double blooms that look like little rosettes
• ‘Ice Follies’ – White with a soft yellow cup

April Bloomers

• ‘Sweetness’ – Golden and fragrant
• ‘Falconet’- Golden yellow petals and dark orange cup
• ‘Thalia’ – Elegant, all-white, and scented.

With the right mix, you can have color and fragrance from late November through April—plus plenty to share with friends and family.

Local Sources:

Hyams Garden Center and Accent Store

Abide-A-While Garden Boutique



Mail Order Sources:

Brent and Becky Bulbs

Colorblends Wholesale Bulbs

Eden Brothers

Old House Gardens Heirloom Bulbs

The Southern Bulb Co.

Giving Natives Their Due - Magnolias

An aristocrat in our Southern forests and cultivated landscapes, Magnolia grandiflora dominates its environs. A classic southern tree with large, glossy leaves and fragrant white flowers in summer. Many cultivars are available, ranging from giant shade trees to smaller, compact forms. Growing upwards from 60’-80’ and as wide as 30’-50’, few residential homeowners today have the space that would allow this tree to mature to its elegant size and shape. With this in mind, nursery growers have wisely selected and propagated cultivars better suited for our smaller gardens.

Remember this native thrives in our heat and humidity. It prefers slightly acidic soil and performs well in normal moisture levels of our lowcountry climate. Its roots, however, require well-drained soils and will not tolerate periods of prolonged standing water.

Magnolias do well in full sun to partial shade, and, thanks to the waxy coating of their leaves, they can adapt to moderate salt spray and soil salinity. Protection from damaging winds is recommended. Some smaller and more compact cultivars for our Zone 9 climate include:

• ‘Little Gem’ – Stays around 15–20 ft tall, 8–10 ft wide (much smaller than the standard Southern magnolia). Blooms heavily even when young, with fragrant white flowers. Great for containers or as a small specimen tree.

• ‘Teddy Bear’ – Upright, dense habit, 15–20 ft tall, 10–12 ft wide. Dark green leaves with rich bronze undersides—very ornamental. Excellent for patios, courtyards, or smaller landscapes.

• ‘Brackens Brown Beauty' – Larger (30 - 50tall, 15 - 30 ft wide), strong grower, reliable bloomer. Large 5 - 6 inch creamy white flowers. Very fragrant. A hardier magnolia that transplants well and does not lose as many leaves as other varieties.



NOTE: The magnolias that merit showstopper status in our early to mid spring gardens, such as 'star' and 'saucer', are not native to the US and are not evergreen, and will be reviewed in a later edition of The VINE.

An alternative species of native magnolia is Magnolia virginiana. Commonly known as the sweet bay magnolia, it is semi-evergreen, has both smaller leaves and white, fragrant blooms, and prefers full sun. Unlike other native and non native magnolias, this species grows well in boggy, swamp-like, consistently moist conditions. While in no way as showy as grandiflora, it is valued for its tolerance of chronically low, wet locations.

Growing Magnolias in Zone 9:

• Rich, slightly acidic, and well-drained soil. They dislike heavy clay that stays soggy.
• Keep evenly moist, especially while establishing.
• Evergreen types can handle full sun; deciduous types often prefer some afternoon shade in Zone 9 heat.
• Requires minimal pruning - best done right after flowering.

An Old Favorite Revisited: Clivia

Clivia is a very small genus of plants native to the forested regions of South Africa. The species we know and grow is Clivia miniata, commonly known as the Natal lily. They thrive in filtered or indirect light, with normal watering or rainfall from bloom time in early spring until mid-to-late October. This is critical. Read on:

Their broad, thick, arching leaves are a deep shade of green and prefer to be crowded in pots. They seldom require upsizing for 3-5 years. When transplanting, it is recommended to use a well-draining soil mixture like an orchid or cactus product, and provide normal watering and fertilizing until October.

A collection of potted clivia, along with contrasting textural plants that thrive in similar low-light conditions, is best used to ornament a sunroom or lightly shaded indoor or outdoor porch. Since clivia will not tolerate temperatures below freezing, growing them in pots allows for mobility and

also keeps their roots crowded.

Enjoy them from Spring until October, but then be prepared to make changes in order to trick them into the dormant state they require to set bud and bloom. While handsome as an evergreen foliage plant, it is the stunning display of clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers that rise out of the foliage on strong, sturdy stems that lifts this plant to its enviable status. Blooms range in color from shades of orange and yellow to the more unusual tones of creams, pink, peach, and lime green.

The heartbreak of every clivia owner is watching their plant’s failure to bloom. Beginning in October, the following steps must be taken to guarantee a display of multiple clusters of blooms come spring.

• Clivia must be 4-6 years old (if propagated from seed) to bloom, which explains their expense relative to most plants.

• Grow plants from the end of their bloom cycle (usually April) through October outdoors in filtered light in pots filled with well-drained soil, and fertilize with 1⁄2 strength bloom booster monthly.

• Now comes the TRICK - Reduce watering in early October to no more than once per month and move plants to a cool place (temps from 40-55 degrees) for a minimum of 5 weeks. A temperature-controlled greenhouse or garage, or an indoor part of your house, is required since our natural temperatures during this time are too warm. 4-6 hours of Indirect light are required as well.

• Protect plants from freezing temps.

• After a minimum of 5 weeks of dormancy, gradually warm up temperatures to 60-75 degrees and resume normal watering (let top 1-2” of soil dry out before adding water).

• Increase hours of natural light but no direct sun.

• Resume monthly fertilizing as soon as new foliage appears. Bloom shoots will follow.

With proper maintenance, clivia can live over 100 years!

Fall in the Lowcountry is such a fabulous time of year. After the seemingly endless brutal heat of late July and August, the cooler temperatures of fall bring such welcome relief and offer wonderful opportunities for your containers and window boxes to really shine. Since our growing season is long, and fall doesn’t always mean frost, we can focus on plants that bring

color, texture, and cool-season performance, while tolerating the warmth that often lingers in early fall. Here are some ideas for fall container and window box plantings in Zone 9:



Foliage Stars (long-lasting structure)

• Coleus – still thrives in fall until frost; use for bold foliage
• Ornamental kale and cabbages – adds both color and texture, and the purple, pink, and white rosettes add a “flower-like” effect
• Heuchera (Coral Bells) – great for mixed shades of bronze, burgundy, or lime. The vast color options add such depth and variety to any mixed planting
• Dusty Miller – silvery foliage pairs well with rich fall tones
• Ornamental grasses (fountain grass, purple millet, carex) – give height and movement
• Swiss Chard - the colorful stems in bright shades of reds, yellows and oranges add pop to any container

Cool-Season Bloomers

• Pansies & Violas – cheerful, long bloomers in cooler temps.
• Snapdragons – dwarf varieties provide colorful spikes that last through the season.
• Calendula – bright orange and yellow daisy-like flowers.
• Chrysanthemums – classic fall blooms, perfect for window boxes.
• Petunias (fall/winter varieties in mild zones) – can flower into winter.

Trailing & Softening Plants

• Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia) – golden trailing foliage for contrast.
• Sweet Alyssum – delicate blooms, wonderful fragrance, spreads nicely.
• Trailing lobelia – good for cooler fall weather.
• Heucherella - a cross between Heuchera and Tiarella that was developed by growers specifically for hanging baskets and containers. It produces long trailing stems of up to 30 inches and comes in the same wide array of colors. It prefers morning sun and afternoon shade. Heuchera hates wet feet, so be sure to use a well-draining soil. Heuchera could replace ivy or creeping Jenny as a colorful spiller, giving you seasonal foliage instead of just green.

Tips for Successful Fall Plantings

• Switch to cool-season annuals in late October when nights are consistently cooler.
• Use rich, fresh potting soil and add slow-release fertilizer since cool-season plants feed steadily.
• Rotate plants seasonally: keep your evergreens and grasses as anchors, swap out the bloomers as temps change.
• Consider adding pumpkins, gourds, dried okra, or other seed pods for seasonal interest and color.

Time is valuable, and we are always trying to make the most of it, so podcasts are perfect little nuggets of information that you can start and stop whenever you like. Think of them as “lectures on the go.” Whether taking a walk, working in the garden, cooking dinner, or driving, it is so convenient to have a podcast playing. Our favorites lean toward gardening and botany, but there is a podcast out there for every interest.

A few of our favorite podcasts are listed below with a short description of why they appeal to us. Let us know if you have others to recommend. The beauty of podcasts is that if a particular episode isn’t for you, you can simply skip it. There’s no test and no judgment!

The Plantastic Podcast — Dr. Jared Barnes

Dr. Barnes is a professor at Stephen F. Austin State University in Nacogdoches, Texas. Each month, he interviews a guest from the world of horticulture, and he has a real gift for drawing out their best stories and insights. Episode #21 features our November speaker, Bryce Lane. If you listen ahead of the lecture, you’ll feel as though you’re greeting an old friend when Bryce gives his presentation. Episode #20 features Molly Hendry, a rising star in the world of horticulture and the designer of Colonial Lake “Re-imagined.”

A Way to Garden — Margaret Roach

Margaret Roach, former garden editor at Martha Stewart Living, left New York City for a small home and garden in upstate New York. Her podcast often reflects her zone 5–6 experience, but her insights and conversations are wide-ranging and appeal to gardeners in many regions. She has a gentle, thoughtful style that makes her show both informative and enjoyable.

The Garden Mixer - Leslie Harris and Marianne Wellborn

Leslie and Marianne host a lighthearted yet informative podcast, brimming with practical gardening tidbits you can put to use right away. Their lively, cheeky banter is paired with a shared libation, making each episode feel like a friendly conversation around the kitchen table. It’s enthusiastic, entertaining, and the perfect companion while you’re cooking supper—or enjoying a cocktail of your own.

The Joe Gardener Show — Joe Lamp’l

Based in Atlanta, Joe Lamp’l shares practical advice and timely topics for gardeners in our region. Feel free to fast forward past the ads and dive straight into his weekly guest or subject, as the content is always solid and relevant.

We hope you’ll give these podcasts a listen. Another great tip: you can speed up the playback to fit even more listening into your day. And yes—feel free to skip the commercials! There are many more podcasts out there, but these are some of our favorites for inspiration and information.

We’d love to hear from you! As we grow The Vine Online together, your thoughts and ideas mean the world to us. Please tell us what you’ve enjoyed, what you’d like to see more of, and what inspires you in your own garden. Drop us a note, share a photo, or just say hello - your feedback helps us make each issue better and more rooted in what matters most to our readers.

Until next time, happy gardening and enjoy every moment of this beautiful fall season!

Kim Ashley

VINE Editor and CHS Board Member

The Vine Online offers members Lowcountry-specific, timely horticultural advice, following in the tradition of the HORT's original printed publication of The Vine.

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