January - March - 2026

As we welcome a new year, winter gives us a chance to slow down, take stock of our gardens, and look ahead to the growth to come. However, don't be lulled into thinking that cooler temperatures and shorter days mean we can just sit back and rest on our laurels.

Winter in the Lowcountry is not just a pause button; it is a planning season. While the garden may look quieter on the surface, this is one of the most important times of the year to set the stage for beauty and success in the months ahead. Winter is when we prepare beds, improve soil, evaluate what worked (and what didn't), and make thoughtful choices about structure, evergreen, and seasonal interest.

From pruning and planting cool-season favorites to protecting tender plants and planning spring containers, the steps you take now will reward you with healthier plants, stronger landscapes, and a garden that feels intentional year-round. This winter edition is designed to help you make the most of this productive season so your garden doesn't just wake up in spring, but truly shines.

Thank you for being part of the HORT community, and here's to a new year of learning and growing greener together.

Happy Gardening,

Kim Ashley, CHS Board Member and VINE Editor

Susan Epstein and Beverly Rivers, Contributors

What to Do With

Your Gifted Greens

Holiday plants add so much cheer to our homes, but once the decorations come down, it’s easy to wonder what comes next. The good news? With just a little care, favorites like Christmas cactus, waxed amaryllis bulbs, and rosemary topiaries can keep growing and looking great long after the holidays are over.

Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera)

Unlike desert cacti, Christmas cactus is a tropical plant that prefers bright, indirect light and evenly moist soil.

After the holidays:

• Place near a bright window with indirect light. Avoid direct afternoon sun, which can scorch leaves
• Water when the top inch of soil feels dry; never let the plant sit in water. Root rot is the #1 killer!
• During winter and while blooming, keep the soil slightly more moist than at other times
• Prefers daytime temperatures of 60–70°F and cooler nights around 55–65°F
• After blooming, continue normal care. This plant can rebloom year after year

To encourage future blooms each year:

• Short days and cool nights trigger blooming
• About 6–8 weeks before you want flowers (usually in fall), give the plant 12–14 hours of darkness each night
• Keep temperatures cool, around 55–65°F
• Reduce watering slightly during this rest period
• Once buds form, return to normal watering
• Avoid moving the plant at this stage, as shifting it can cause buds to drop .

Common Issues

• Shriveled leaves → too little water.
• Soft, mushy leaves → too much water/root rot.
• Buds dropping → sudden temperature/light changes or drafts.
• Stem segments dropping → stress from overwatering or lack of light

Waxed Amaryllis

If you are anything like me, you may have purchased or received some wax-coated Amaryllis bulbs to brighten your home during the holidays. Trust me when I say I was a regular at Trader Joe’s first thing in the morning when the new crates of fat red, silver, and gold waxed bulbs arrived in late November.

Waxed amaryllis bulbs are super easy to grow as they require neither water nor soil. A note of caution, however, the wax-coated amaryllis are designed to be single-season décor. The wax seals the bulb so it cannot absorb water, grow roots, or store energy. That means you cannot keep them growing long-term unless you remove the wax. But the good news is, with a bit of careful work, you can sometimes save and rebloom them!

How to Save a Waxed Amaryllis After Blooming

After the bloom fades;

• Remove the wax: Gently peel or cut away the wax from the bulb. Try not to damage the basal plate (the bottom)
• Check for roots. Most waxed bulbs have had the roots shaved off. But don’t worry, that’s normal, and fortunately, they will regrow.
• Pot the bulb in a pot just a little larger than the bulb in well-draining soil (cactus/citrus mix works well) with the bulb approximately 1/3" above the soil line
• Water sparingly at first - Since it has no roots, start lightly, just a small splash of water around the base. Once new green leaves appear, water more deeply but let the soil dry slightly between waterings
• Give it bright, indirect sun. This is important to rebuild its energy.
• Treat it like a normal amaryllis for the rest of the year

Through spring and summer:

• Water regularly
• Fertilize every 2–3 weeks
• Let foliage grow and recharge the bulb

Preparing it for next winter’s rebloom (early fall, September-October):

• Stop watering and let the leaves die back.
• Move the pot to a cool, dark place for 6–8 weeks (50–60°F).
• Bring it back into warmth and light, and start watering only when new growth shows.

Your amaryllis should bloom again, although waxed bulbs sometimes need an extra year to bounce back. You can even plant them right in the garden. Once they’re done blooming, peel off the wax and plant the bulb with about a third showing above the soil. Give them morning sun, afternoon shade, and good drainage, and they’ll happily grow as perennials, slowly multiplying and putting on a bigger show each year. 

Rosemary Topiaries

During the holidays, rosemary topiaries shaped like miniature Christmas trees appear everywhere, from big box stores and local nurseries to grocery stores. Don’t be fooled by their festive charm. While they may look good indoors for a few weeks, plan to move them outside as soon as the holidays are over.

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) loves sunshine and fresh air, so the more light and airflow it gets, the happier it will be. Indoors, keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy, and give it the brightest spot in the house. It also prefers a cooler room, since warm indoor air can stress it out. With a little TLC and a move outdoors when the weather warms up, your holiday rosemary can grow into a long-lived, useful garden plant instead of just a seasonal decoration.

Holiday plants are more than decorations; they’re living gifts! With proper post-holiday care, many can continue to grow and bring joy for months (or even years) to come. If you’re unsure about a plant’s needs, a quick adjustment in light, water, or placement can make all the difference.

What to Do in January, February, and March in Your Lowcountry Garden

In cooler parts of the country, winter is for paging through garden journals, circling plants in catalogs, and dreaming up new designs on paper. But here in the Lowcountry, this is when the real garden work gets done. So pull on a pair of warm socks, add a few cozy layers, and head outside to enjoy those crisp, pest-free days and bright, blue winter skies.

Prune

• Bring out your sharpened cutting tools and start cutting back congested vines and shrubs
• Prune to improve air circulation and reveal the natural structure of each plant
• Keep antiseptic alcohol nearby to clean your tools, especially when working on plants with insect issues
• Roses: In our zone, February is the ideal time to prune. Valentine’s Day makes an easy reminder. For step-by-step guidance, see our February 2025 Vine online issue for detailed rose-pruning tips.

Study

• Step back and study your garden from different angles
• Restore focal points that have been hidden by overgrown branches, or create new focal points by shaping surrounding plants to frame a view
• Prune overgrown shrubs to bring them back into scale with the space
• You can be bold! Just follow the one-third rule
• Leave room for plants to rebound with strong, healthy new growth

Grow

• Open up dense shrubs to improve air flow and light penetration
• Remove any branches showing insect infestation to encourage healthy new growth
• Use trusted resources to learn proper pruning techniques
• Search online
• Borrow a pruning book from the Patti McGee Garden Library at the HORT office
• Attend a pruning workshop
• Make sure cuts are done correctly - improper pruning can create its own set of plant problems.

Move

• This is the ideal time to move shrubs and perennials that have outgrown their space
• Plants that are constantly being cut back often do better when relocated
• Prune plants back by about half before or after digging. Replant them elsewhere in your garden or pass them along to another gardener
• Use this moment to take a fresh look at your garden’s “bones”
• Visualize a better design — and then get in there and make it happen! 

Grasses

• Cut back all ornamental grasses no later than late February, before new growth emerges from the crown
• Remove old, disfigured, and dormant foliage to make room for fresh spring growth including:
• Liriope
• Ophiopogon intermedius (Aztec Grass)
• Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass)
• Miscanthus
• Muhlenbergia capillaris (Muhly Grass)
• Carex (Sedge)
• A lawn mower set to the lowest setting or a weed eater makes quick work of smaller grasses. Taller grasses will need sharp shrub pruners

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Bulbs

• Be patient with bulb foliage as flowers fade
• Allow leaves to yellow naturally before cutting back
• Bending, tying, or removing green leaves too early weakens next year’s blooms



As we follow one of the recommendations for gardening sustainably, we have delayed the cleanup of leaf litter so the insects could benefit from soft landings. By the end of March, start pulling leaves out of spots where new plants are popping up, and tuck them into other beds, under shrubs, or straight into the compost where they can be beneficial.

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This is also the time to circulate your completed compost to garden beds so it can nourish the soil, which will then nourish the plants. Synthetic fertilizers are no longer recommended for our garden plants.

An important annual task for this time of year is the sanitary cleanup recommended for the fallen blooms of the Camellia japonicas. There is a fungus called Ciborinia camelliae , also known as camellia blight, which spreads to the plant through infected soil and causes the petals on the flowers to turn brown and drop before the bloom fully develops. Cleaning up all dropped blooms every 3-5 days before they can decompose is the best way to avoid the spread of this disease. It only affects the flowers and does no damage to the rest of the plant.

Spring Showstopper

A FAVORITE EXOTIC FOR OUR SPRING GARDENS - Bletilla striata



Charleston gardens truly come alive from late February through March, when layers of color begin unfolding across the landscape. Many longtime gardeners remember when this springtime burst once lined up neatly with the old “tourist season,” a heady mix of azaleas, camellias, dogwoods, redbuds, daffodils, and flowering fruit trees all putting on their best show at once.

While our city has changed in countless ways since then, our gardens have only grown richer, with hundreds of new plants, both native and well-traveled, now adding depth and interest to the spring display. One of those standouts is the Bletilla striata, aka Chinese Hardy orchid or ground orchid.

Native to southeastern Asia, it has settled comfortably into Lowcountry gardens, where it behaves like a true Southern perennial. It prefers morning sun or light shade and will reward you with graceful blooms each spring, though it’s happiest when protected from the hot afternoon sun, which can scorch its elegant, pleated leaves.



Bletilla striata at a Glance

• Blooms in shades of pink, purple, and white
• Thrives in moist, well-drained soil rich in compost and leaf litter
• Well-suited to our mild Lowcountry winters, tolerating temps down to about 25–28°F

What Makes It Special

• One of only five terrestrial orchid species
• Grows from pseudobulbs that store water and help the plant survive dry spells

Planting & Growth

• Plant pseudobulbs 2–5 inches below the soil surface to improve cold hardiness (down to Zone 5)
• In our zone, they naturally sit at or just below ground level
• Over time, the bulbs multiply, creating larger clumps but fewer blooms
• Dig and divide after flowering to refresh the plant and share with fellow gardeners

Care & Maintenance

• Very low maintenance
• Top-dress with compost once a year (local or homemade is best)
• Water only during extended drought
• Cut foliage back in mid to late fall when it starts to fade, or leave it standing to provide winter habitat
• Always cut back before new growth appears in March for the best spring display

Where to Plant

• Containers
• Front of spring borders
• Mixed in with spring-flowering bulbs

A true garden jewel for years of easy, elegant spring color.

Yaupon Holly

(Ilex vomitoria)

Ilex vomitoria, commonly known as yaupon holly, is a native shrub or small tree found throughout the southeastern United States and extending into Mexico. Indigenous peoples brewed a tea from the leaves; when consumed in large quantities, it could induce vomiting, hence the specific epithet vomitoria.

Yaupon holly is one of the most versatile shrubs or small trees in our horticultural toolbox.

• It thrives in full sun to deep shade, is drought-tolerant once established, and transplants easily
• Tolerates occasional saltwater intrusion (though not prolonged exposure).
• In sunnier locations, yaupon can be maintained as a dense 4–6 foot hedge, or a naturalized screen. It can also be trained into an attractive multi-trunked specimen tree.
• The dwarf form, Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana,’ is an excellent alternative to boxwood and can be easily maintained at 3–4 feet as a low hedge or rounded individual forms. It rarely produces berries.
• Ilex vomitoria '‘Pendula,’ a weeping selection, should be used sparingly but makes a striking focal point or accent in the landscape.
• Ilex vomitoria ‘Shadow’s Female’ is a naturally full and well-branched cultivar that is valued for its berry production and uniform growth habit. It can be integrated easily into a naturalistic or a formal setting and reach a height of 10-15’, depending on pruning.

Yaupon hollies bloom in late spring to early summer with small, inconspicuous flowers. The species is dioecious, meaning male and female plants are required for berry production. In most residential settings, however, a single male plant nearby, often even one in a neighboring

landscape, is sufficient to pollinate female plants.

Berries begin turning red in the fall and become a bright, translucent red by the holidays. By February, they are fully ripe and irresistible to migrating cedar waxwings, which can strip a plant of berries in a single day - a spectacular sight to behold!

UNDERSTANDING

STORMWATER

RETENTION PONDS

Stormwater retention ponds are a familiar sight in many neighborhoods, commercial developments, and public spaces, yet many people aren’t quite sure what they actually do. Far from being simple decorative features, these ponds play a critical role in protecting communities, waterways, property, and the environment.

What Is a Stormwater Retention Pond?

A stormwater retention pond (also called a “wet pond”) is a man-made basin designed to collect and hold storm runoff permanently. Unlike a detention pond, which temporarily stores water and then drains dry, a retention pond always has a pool of water. These ponds act as natural treatment systems that reduce flooding, filter pollutants, and support local wildlife.

The True Purpose of a Retention Pond

• Flood Control - When it rains, water from roofs, driveways, streets, and parking lots runs off quickly and in large volumes. Without somewhere to go, this can overwhelm drainage systems. A retention pond will store excess rainwater and then release it slowly through controlled outlets.
• Pollution Reduction - As storm water runoff enters a retention pond, sediment settles, and plants and microbes naturally break down pollutants, improving water quality before it flows back into streams or groundwater.
• Habitat Creation - A well-maintained pond supports birds, amphibians, fish, beneficial insects, and pollinator plants. This boosts local biodiversity and contributes to healthier ecosystems.
• Community Aesthetics -When designed and maintained properly, retention ponds can be attractive community features with walking paths, native plantings, and wildlife observation areas.

Proper Maintenance: What Communities Must Do

Retention ponds must be maintained to function properly. Poor maintenance can lead to flooding, algae blooms, bad odors, mosquito problems, and costly repairs.

Essential practices:

• Vegetation Management - Maintain a healthy buffer of native plants around the pond. This helps: to filter pollutants, stabilize banks, discourage geese, and improve wildlife habitat. Avoid mowing right to the water’s edge, which causes erosion.
• Debris and Trash Removal - Regularly clean litter, fallen branches, grass clippings, and yard waste. These materials add excess nutrients to the water and fuel algae growth.
• Sediment Monitoring and Removal - Over time, sediment builds up in the pond and reduces storage capacity. Communities should inspect sediment levels every 1–3 years, and remove accumulated sediment (“dredging”) every 10–20 years, depending on use. This restores the pond’s ability to handle stormwater.
• Inlet and Outlet Inspection - Check that pipes are clear, grates are not clogged, and that spillways are stable and unobstructed. Blocked outlets are one of the most common causes of pond overflow and erosion.
• Control of Invasive Species - Plants such as cattails, hydrilla, and Brazilian pepper can overtake ponds. Ongoing monitoring helps prevent blocked water flow, loss of native habitat, and increased mosquito breeding. Use approved methods for removal, and avoid herbicides that can harm aquatic life.
• Algae and Water Quality Management - Healthy ponds may have some algae, but large blooms indicate too many nutrients. Prevention strategies include: Reducing fertilizer use around the pond, increasing native shoreline vegetation, installing aerators or fountains where appropriate, avoid using chemical treatments as the first response.

Final Thoughts

Stormwater retention ponds are indispensable infrastructure hidden in plain sight. With a clear understanding of their purpose and consistent maintenance, communities can

ensure these systems work effectively, remain attractive, and protect both property and natural waterways.

Want to learn more about Stormwater Retention Ponds? Join us on Sunday, February 15th, from 2 - 4 pm at the Belle Hall Clubhouse located at 652 Belle Hall Parkway in Mount Pleasant for coffee, conversation, and an opportunity to dig deeper into our Going Greener Together Initiative. Sign up here.

Why We

Should Plant Under Our

Trees

We often hear the lament, “I can’t get anything to grow under my live oaks.” With a little patience and the right plant palette, you can grow quite a lot beneath mature trees, provided you choose plants that tolerate shade and dry conditions.

But beyond aesthetics, there is now an ecological reason to garden under trees. The term “soft landings”, new to many gardeners, was coined in the early 2020s by entomologist Heather Holm and conservationist Leslie Pilgrim. The phrase refers to intentionally planting or preserving leaf litter, duff, and low herbaceous vegetation beneath the canopy of native trees, creating a “soft landing” for the insects that depend on trees to complete their life cycles.

Many of our native moths and butterflies spend only part of their lives in the canopy.

• Adults lay eggs on the leaves.
• The caterpillars feed and grow in the tree.
• When ready to pupate, they drop to the ground, seeking shelter in leaf litter or shallow soil.
• After emerging, they return to the canopy, and the cycle begins again.
• If the ground beneath a tree is heavily tilled, mowed, raked, blown, or compacted, most of those pupae never survive to adulthood. In essence, we starve the songbirds and pollinators that rely on these insects, even when we think we’re supporting nature by “having trees.”

Soft Landings reverse that trend. It is ideal to begin planting when trees are young, but most of us inherit mature oaks, so anytime from fall to early spring is the perfect time to start.

How to start your own “soft landing” zone.

• Imagine the canopy as a large umbrella. The edge of the canopy (the drip line) marks the outer boundary of your soft landing bed. Work inward, staying 2–4 feet away from the trunk to protect surface roots.
• Avoid digging or herbicides. Instead, lay down cardboard and cover it with mulch to smother the lawn. This takes 4–6 months, but it is the least damaging method for your tree.
• Select native, shallow-rooted, low-growing species such as herbaceous plants, sedges, and woodland grasses that thrive in dry shade. A mix of species increases habitat value. Finding plants can be challenging, but local growers such as Roots and Shoots Nursery and Native Plants to the People offer plug-grown natives. Plugs are small, healthy plants grown in trays of 24, 32, or 48, and they cost a fraction of a one-gallon pot, establish quickly, and reduce impact on the tree's own root zone. For plant ideas, visit the SC Native Plant Society database and filter by shade, soil, and region.
• Use a small trowel to make shallow holes, disturbing surface roots and as little soil as possible.
• Water well during planting and continue through the first couple of growing seasons to support both the new plants and the tree.

As Heather Holm and Leslie Pilgrim emphasize, the most effective soft landings are low, diverse, and mostly native. As leaves fall each year, they create a natural ecological engine beneath the tree:

• Nature’s mulch: leaf litter adds organic matter, builds soil, and feeds the tree.
• Food for wildlife: supports songbirds, pollinators, and countless beneficial insects.
• Safe habitat: protects caterpillars and other larvae during vulnerable life stages.
• Carbon sequestration: Undisturbed soils store more carbon.
• Moisture conservation: reduces evaporation and moderates soil temperature.
• Reduced maintenance: far less mowing, raking, and blowing.

Soft landings transform the space beneath our native trees from biological deserts into thriving ecological communities. By allowing leaf litter to remain and planting native ground covers and low-growing plants, we support the insects that support the birds that support the entire food web.

It is a small act with an outsized impact and one of the simplest ways we can restore nature right in our own garden.

We’d love to hear from you! As we grow The Vine Online together, your thoughts and ideas mean the world to us. Please tell us what you’ve enjoyed, what you’d like to see more of, and what inspires you in your own garden. Drop us a note, share a photo, or just say hello. Your feedback helps us make each issue better and more rooted in what matters most to our readers.

Until next time, happy gardening and enjoy every moment of this beautiful season!

Kim Ashley

VINE Editor and CHS Board Member

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