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Moments before cresting an unnamed Nepalese hilltop, my Royal Enfield Himalayan and I were gasping for oxygen in the high elevation, both motorcycle and rider sluggish from a touch of altitude sickness. We were also determined to stay on the gas, to be the first to the top and soak in the view before the others arrived, to see another view of a sky that can’t decide whether to rain or snow, the scene beautiful and mournful in the same moment. A featureless crowned mesa at 15,000 feet on the Tibetan plateau, nestled in a barren basin ringed with the snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas. This is a place I never imagined existed.
All I could hear was my own attempts to catch my breath and the distinct ticking sound of the Royal Enfield as the motor tried to cool itself. Miles below, at the other end of a serpentine tract that would suddenly disappear in the mist and reappear just as suddenly, lies the ancient Forbidden Kingdom of Lo Manthang.
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