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Friends,
I’ve been on a wellness road trip through the countryside from Jodhpur in Rajasthan south-east to Panna National Park in Central India. It was terrific. I stayed in small, owner-managed, mostly historic hotels and encountered timeless traditions and nature in its pure richness and beauty. Best of all, I reckon I found whatever your wellness kick is.
I’m going to share each of these spots with you, one by one. I'm ready to book one or two for you, or you can follow my whole route.
Our road trip kicks off from Jodhpur, where I’ve selected one among several classy, small, owner-managed hotels thriving there. (I’ll tell you about the others later.)
Enjoy!
UNPACKING WELLNESS IN INDIA
Episode 40
Location: Bungalow 2, Rai Ka Bagh, Jodhpur, Rajasthan 342006
Explore the Bungalow 2 website here
Rajat Singh’s grandfather was given this handsome, spacious, airy house by the Maharaja of Jodhpur as thanks for exceptional services during World War II. It had been built in the late 19C as ‘nazarbandh’, that is, a place where feudal chiefs were held under house arrest for not paying their lagaan (tax) to their maharaja – not such a good move given he was the powerful Rajput ruler of huge Marwar kingdom. Happily, it was a rather comfortable form of restraint. Later, the British Resident lived here.
With its period fixtures and fittings setting the tone, today Rajat and his German wife Susanne Kuhn-Singh ensure their guests live in the kind of peaceful, sophisticated and personal comfort that a British Resident – or rebuked noble - might expect. Everything to hand, all needs anticipated, nothing ostentatious. ‘We absolutely created this for foreign guests’, says Rajat frankly. ‘No TV, no pool, no lift, no room service, no phone – just a bell instead. And only home-made food!’ He laughs, saying Indians would not be happy here, ‘as they eat that at their own homes, they want something different when they go away.’
I worry about the lack of ‘bed tea’ - the luxury of being brought a tray of early morning tea on waking is the ultimate start to my day. But Rajat brokes no exception. Guests in the eight rooms must slip along in their pyjamas to help themselves to early tea and coffee set out on a deep verandah.
The house has been carefully restored and converted, using traditional materials and skills. Rajat, Susanne and their family live on the ground floor, and are available for their guests 24/7; guest rooms (two with private verandahs) and living spaces are above. Before launching Bungalow 2 they both worked in the German travel trade for 20 years, bringing people to India. ‘So we do what we know and do best’, says Rajat. That about sums up highly professional Bungalow 2.
Must-do wellness experience at Bungalow 2: Exploring Jodhpur, then hanging out on a verandah, drink in hand, doing not much.
Bungalow 2 buzzwords: ‘Did you taste the new-season haldi-ki-sabzi and green chickpeas at dinner?’
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