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Staystitching is a row of stitching sewn inside a seamline to help keep the area from stretching and pulling out of shape during construction, fitting, and general handling. Usually, staystitching is done only on curved or angular seams, though it may be done in other areas on unstable fabrics like loosely woven or very stretchy fabrics. This is a vital step, but it is often overlooked.

Staystitching uses a regular length stitch, which is done through a single fabric layer using thread that matches the project. This stabilizing stitching remains in the garment or project after the construction stitching is complete and will most likely be hidden depending on your seam finishing of choice.

When is staystitching done?

Staystitch immediately after removing the paper pattern piece from the cut fabric. On unstable fabrics, any handling and pressing can distort the cut section causing it not to match the corresponding pieces of the original pattern.

If you are using sew-in woven interfacing, the same applies.

Where is it done?

Typical areas are round and V-necklines, armholes, angled seemliness like bodice side seams, curved waistlines, and all facings that fit these areas.

On garments with traditional 5/8” seemliness, stay stitching is done 1/2” from the garment cut edge. On placket seemliness (usually cut on bias grain) and zippers or snap openings, stay stitching is done 1/4” from the cut edge for extra stability.

Try not to staystitch long bias-cut edges, as they will distort beyond correction. If necessary, split your stay stitching into two segments. For example, on skirts, start from the side seams and sew towards the center, then repeat on the opposite side.

How is it done?

Staystitching is traditionally sewn on woven fabrics, and the general rule is to stitch from wide to narrow. For example, when stitching side seams, sew from the underarm seam to the waistline; on necklines, stitch from the shoulder point to the center, breaking the stitching at the center and sewing the opposite side from the shoulder point to the center as well. Continually stitching a neckline edge would defeat the purpose of sewing with the fabric grain.

Staystitching lines cross at adjacent edges as stitching goes all the way from cut edge to cut edge without regard to seamline width.

Why isn’t stay stitching done on all seamlines?

Staystitching can be done on all seemliness (except long bias edges) if desired.

If your fabric is loosely woven or has the tendency to stretch, all the more reason to.

Is stay stitching only for woven garment fabrics?

Staystitching can also be used on knit fabrics to help them maintain their shape, and it’s done in the exact locations on the knit as on a woven fabric.

Staystitching can also be helpful on some home decorating projects, especially when using loosely woven or otherwise unstable fabrics and layering multiple fabrics together.

Checking size and shape

Once stay stitching is complete, lay the paper pattern over the stitched pieces to be sure they match the correct size and shape. If not, gently remove the stitches with a seam ripper every 2” to 3” to return the distorted piece to the proper size, lightly press it into shape, then resew your staystitch.

I hope that with this extra knowledge, your sewing projects will improve. No more gaping necklines and ill-fitting collars! Yes, it will take more time, and yes, it will be annoying, but the results are worth it. Give it a try and notice the difference in quality in your "me-made" garments.

Until next week, Happy Sewing!

Carla

Beginner's Sewing Course Instructor

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