Last month, I had the great fortune to travel to Greece on an exploratory trip off the typical tourist track, heading north from Athens and circling around to the beaches in the east, before popping through Mykonos and Santorini on my way home. I discovered a warm, bubbly brand of hospitality, a country full of people who have an infectious knack for enjoying life.
The history is as expected – some of the best in the world, with fantastic, epic stories to accompany larger-than-life ruins settled into dramatic landscapes. The food was somehow better than expected. I tend to underestimate the power of simple Mediterranean flavors. The freshest ingredients, lots of home garden-grown herbs, a little salt and olive oil. What else do you need (wine, of course. They’ve got that too). In contrast to something like a French cuisine which can be so rich, you can feel good about gorging on a Greek feast. Or at least, you can recover quicker.
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My mainland route was an eye-opener. Our first stop was Arrachova, a small town with a Swiss alpine feel to it, and the best place for skiing in Greece. We didn’t come for the snow, we came to see Delphi, the historic seat of the Oracle of Apollo. We then continued to Meteora. A truly unique destination, Meteora is made up of giant monolithic rock formations. Huge towering rock faces rising up in all directions, and many of them have monasteries impossibly perched on the clifftops. Some of them are still inhabited, although many have been abandoned. We entered one such temple, and the splendor is something fit for a Greek god. We continued through Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece, and on to Helkidiki, home to arguably the best beaches in Greece and a popular playground for Europeans.
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My takeaway from the Mainland is that this is the heart of true Greece. Charming villages, lovely people, profound history and delicious food all beckon. The hotel infrastructure is simply not up to a luxury American standard, however. If you are going to take on this route, you must expect to “rough it” a bit with simpler accommodations.
I can still deliver fabulous guides and vehicles for services (one of the guides I met leads the History Channel team through Greece every year, and led the Bush family on their last tour of the country), but it is not inexpensive to deliver the best teams to these areas, for a trip that might not feel overly luxurious. For the traveler who wants to dive deep into Greece and is willing to compromise on posh pillows at the end of the day, you will be blown away.
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After Helkidiki, I left my gracious hosts and continued on with a colleague to Mykonos then Santorini. Mykonos is an interesting island. The people that are there, know exactly what they came for. The island seriously knows how to party. That doesn’t take away from the fact that it is a beautiful, dramatically arid island with top-notch tourist infrastructure. The town is beautiful, full of winding cobblestone footpaths leading through charming whitewashed boutiques, restaurants, and residences.
The island is spoiled for choice with fantastic hotels and jaw-dropping villas. I stayed at Bill & Coo (they gave my colleague and I the honeymoon suite, we had to explain “it’s not like that, but thanks”). The hotel is perfectly situated walking distance from town, full of unique art and charming service. The central lounge area surrounds a beautiful infinity pool with unbeatable sunset views – the pool even has lights on the bottom to give the appearance it is full of stars at night. That small yet unique detail is representative of the extra mile the hotel has gone, throughout the property. The restaurant is an adventurous gastronomic experience, and that is just by the menu and renowned sommelier, not taking into account it is built into a pristine desert landscape, joining dramatic nature and fine furnishings seamlessly. Various rooms in the property are built into natural rock walls typical of the island, so guests can choose between a clean, modern aesthetic or a more interesting, organic feel. Much of the island was not open yet for my visit in mid-April, so I was spared the craziness of the beach clubs. Probably for the best.
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A two hour or so ferry ride brought us to Santorini. The ferry was a bit rough. If a helicopter transfer is in the budget, I would say the splurge is worth it. There is a “first class” area upstairs, but the difference between that and “coach” might be comparable to premium economy and economy seats on a domestic US flight. And first class doesn’t save you from the motion of the sea. But by any means, the trip to Santorini is worth it.
I was blown away at how the island managed to exceed my expectations for a beautiful and one of a kind destination. The white-washed villages clinging desperately to the cliffs, the hotels built like caves into the cliffs, the fabulous food and wine… I could have easily spent a week sampling every top shelf restaurant and winery, lost in the views.
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My hotel here was Santorini Secret, a lovely option in Oia, commonly considered the most charming area of the island to stay. Another island spoiled with many hotel options, Secret is not one of the first names to come up in the conversation of places to stay, but a gem nonetheless. From the delicious signature welcome drink, enchanting views from the suites and fantastic food, the hotel checked every box, and all the aforementioned was still out-shined by the effortless, spare-the-formalities charming service. The staff all managed to avoid stiff encounters common in high end hotels, making the stay so much fun. The cliffside properties are not inexpensive, but I managed to see a handful that all boast different talents to suit them to different clients. It seemed I only stopped visiting hotels for a dinner on the Nat Geo-voted “Best Terrace in the World”, and to taste a few award-winning endemic varieties at Gavalas winery.
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To make a long trip and a very long story short, Greece stole my heart. The country suffers from intense heat and more intense tourist traffic during summer months, so I absolutely recommend visiting in shoulder seasons if possible. The mainland is not for everyone, but will surely captivate those who make the trip. Mykonos is a playground for the deep pocketed, a party paradise like Ibiza, except actually charming. Santorini is an absolute must-visit. It is hard to imagine a more romantic setting, and if you aren’t traveling with your significant other, the views and dining will still keep you feeling warm and fuzzy. There is so much more to the country I did not get to experience on this trip, but I can promise that will not be my last trip to Greece.
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