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1800, Saturday, July 15, 2023
Charlie and I were out of our bunks at 0520 this morning for the 50-mile passage from St. Anthony across the Strait of Belle Isle to the coast of southern Labrador. We fitted Charlie to a safety harness, crotch strap and tether before casting off our lines. The harnesses are critical in these cold waters when shorthanded. For much of today the sea temperature was only in the mid 30s; the cold, southward flowing Labrador Current can make the Strait very cold, and iceberg strewn. Indeed, even though we had thick fog for the majority of the passage, we saw eight or ten big bergs and a few growlers.
The first half of our day saw very light wind and we had to use the engine. However, by early afternoon the southwest wind changed dramatically. It picked up to 20 knots almost instantly. We sensed it might build. So, we put one reef in the main and a double reef in the roller furling jib. The real reason for the big jib reef was to give us better visibility of small growlers in our path.
By 1400 as we approached the coast of Labrador, the wind again built in a flash. In a matter of minutes, it was blowing a steady 37 gusting to 42 knots! We made a quick decision to seek a more protected harbor than our original choice. I opted for Pitt's Harbour, also in Chateau Bay. As we approached, we dropped sail and while briefly heading into the wind under power, we were only making 1 knot over the bottom. The good news is that at the head of Pitt's Harbour we dropped anchor in the lee of a high hill in calm waters. The really amazing thing is that the sun came out and the air temperature shot up to the mid 80s! Very warm for Labrador. Probably record setting for where we are.
From our anchorage we have a beautiful view of "The Devil's Dining Table." It is in the photo at the top of this email. This unique rock formation is composed of basalt making a massive plateau some 100 million years ago. The jagged edges and earthy hues seem appropriate for the Devil. The edge of the island is dotted with old fishing cabins, few still in any use.
Another highlight of the day was that on three occasions we had two or three Atlantic white sided dolphins playing in our bow wave and alongside. Their quick movements made them a challenge to photograph, but one picture is below. Seeing dolphins always boosts morale and is a symbol of good luck to sailors.
We are having trouble with our anchor windlass. It has blown a few fuses and the supply of spares is shrinking. I am not sure if there is an underlying issue, or if we need higher amperage fuses. We may have to start hauling the anchor and chain by hand, a daunting task in the deep harbors of Labrador...Tomorrow, we plan to sail north to Battle Harbour, a small port with intriguing history.
Bill
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