If you Like to Sew - Join Janet and you will LOVE to sew!

Questions for Janet

Hi, Janet….

I purchased the ShirtMaker’s Express for women several months ago and have several questions.

I have a 44” bust, 40” waist and 43” hip. I normally need to do FBA in shirts or blouses. I cut out the LG and sewed it together. I definitely need to do a FBA on second try. I know you say on your videos to fit the shoulders first, but in your instructions for the Shirt Makers Express you showed the FBA at beginning. I feel if I do that , it might help with some of the fitting issues I saw on first try.

I have a very broad back along with rounded back and prominent shoulder blades. I wonder if I should have started with a XL size.

Second question: Is the yoke supposed to go to the shoulder, or does it come around to front? My yolk hit at my shoulders, but picture on pattern shows coming over shoulders. I always look forward to watching your videos and watch them over and over. I’m excited to have a nice, fitted shirt/blouse. Thank you in advance for your help.

Regards and happy sewing,

Michelle Holbrook

Hello Michelle,

I always recommend using the pattern size that will best fit the full bust. When we look at the Retail Sizes (body measurements) it's clear with a 44" bust you might choose Large or X Large.

Before you choose the size look at the finished garment measurements.

Large = Bust 43-44 with finished garment measurement of 46 7/8 = 2 7/8" ease

XL Bust = 45-46 with finished garment measurement of 48 7/8 = 4 7/8" ease

If you know the amount of ease you prefer in a shirt it will be simple to choose the pattern size. If you don't know your comfort zone for ease carefully measure the bust line circumference in a shirt that fits the way you like. When it comes to ease 2 7/8" is just adequate and 4 7/8" is roomy. When making a basic shirt I like between 3 and 4 inches of ease. There is no hard and fast rule for ease, there are those who prefer very little ease, 1" and those that prefer generous ease 5-6". I would recommend cutting the XL as you can always take the side seams in a little if the fit is too loose.

The order of fitting for a muslin (not a sloper) is the Full Bust Adjustment first then adjust the shoulders. A sloper would never need a full bust adjustment.

The Yoke does not come to the Front, it finishes at the shoulder seam. Our illustration was incorrect and thanks to your question we have corrected it for future pattern covers.

Happy Sewing & please send photos of you wearing your new shirt!!

Janet

In Response to:

All Sewing Teachers are Not Created Equal

Janet:

I appreciate what you have said here.... I have been talking about this at the Sewing Guild. You cannot just go telling people to google or you-tube instructions on how to do things because it is often WRONG or too much information is missing to make it correct.

I look forward to taking more of your seminars this year. I think I did 2 last year & really enjoyed them.

Nicole Hanna--Arizona

Hi Nicole,

Thank you for sharing that you too have found sewing teachers who are demonstrating concepts they don't even understand. To be clear, we are not talking about teachers who have a different technique or method for accomplish the same concept. We are talking about people, who are so clueless, they don't even know what a dart is!

Hopefully the experienced sewers will scrutinize the presentation, the technique and the instructor carefully before following their directions. My biggest concern is for those who don't have experience and nobody to ask.

When searching on YouTube for help in just about any subject you will discover unknowledgeable people trying to pass themselves off as an expert. Unfortunately, it's difficult to discover the true history of an internet teacher's background and education. Even if one relies on the "about us" section of their website it too can be fabricated.

"Buyer Beware", has never been more important than it is in the world of the internet today.

Happy Sewing!!

Janet

Tuesdays at Two - June & July

Due to vacation schedules and other summer activities Tuesdays at Two will not be the first Tuesday of the month in June or July. Mark your calendars for the following dates.

June - 23rd - Sloper vs Muslin

Both are useful. One is for fitting & one is for testing.

July - 21st - To Be Determind

As always, Tuesdays at Two will be presented live on Facebook at 2:00 pm Eastern Time and posted on YouTube shortly after the presentation.

DittoForm - On the Road

North Carolina, New Jersey & NYC

June 1-3 Charlotte NC [CSA symposium / Hilton Charlotte University Place]

June 18-19 Newark NJ [Home2 Suites Newark Airport]

June 20 NYC/Times Square [NoMad Works]

June 26-29 Raleigh NC [Cosplay America / Hilton Raleigh North Hills]

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Custom Pants Bundle

Book $29.95 + DVD (was $41.95) = $71.90

Bundle $39.95 while supplies last

Introducing the Custom Pant Bundle at a very special savings!

Fashion Your Own Pants the Simple Way, is a comprehensive textbook on drafting, fitting and sewing pants. This book even covers men's pants.

The Custom Pant DVD supports the textbook and adds 1 hour and 15 minutes of Connie's personal instructions for pant drafting, cutting, sewing and fine tuning.