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Vintage Ventures - Yucatán 2018

February 2018

Dr. Wanda

VINTAGE VENTURES: I write my travel journals to look back and remember our ventures. A secondary reason is to allow me to organize all my trip photos. I have thousands of photos. Organizing them into a cohesive story makes sense.

Most tuk-tuks we run across are homebuilt. This is one of the few factory-built tuk-tuks that we have seen.

DAY 20, Thursday, February 22, 2018


NEW SHOES; ROCK’n’ROLL AT MERCADO 60


The next three days were devoted to healing my feet. It is amazing how easy it is to take our ability to walk for granted. I needed my raw blisters to heal, and I needed new shoes. On top of that, Wanda's laptop screen was acting up.


In fact, Wanda’s laptop screen was pretty much dead. Although it would occasionally and randomly come back to life for a few minutes, it was mostly black. Wanda Google searched for an Apple Genius Bar (she still had her smartphone, I had my iPad, and the Airbnb had good WIFI). We found one at the Gran Plaza Mall. She made an appointment for later in the afternoon.


My feet were a mess, and my Rockport shoes were only making them worse. We figured we could find new shoes at the mall while attending to the laptop. Wanda doctored my blisters as best as she could. She used up the last miracle Band Aide Hydrogel on one huge blister, but I had many raw areas that were starting to turn an ominous shade of purple. We needed ointment and bandages as well as new shoes. 


While waiting for the Apple Genius Bar appointment, I practiced my guitar and rested my feet. Later, with a little iPad research, I found a bus to the mall that required almost no walking. Off we went. 


SIDE NOTE: We noticed that when someone buzzes the bus driver to make a stop, he immediately opens the door well before he stops. I pointed out to Wanda that at home, the bus driver would be fired for doing that. Here, they expect the passenger to have enough common sense not to jump out until the bus actually comes to a complete halt, and they do. Of course, he leaves the door open while he grinds through all the gears and gets up to speed. This open-door routine had the added benefit of keeping the non-air-conditioned bus just a bit cooler. 


Wanda had purchased a pair of high-tech sneakers just before the trip. They were made of a super lightweight fabric that gave them the feel of wearing slippers. She was pleased with how comfortable they were and urged me to check out shoes like hers. I was programmed to think that I needed sturdy hikers, but I also knew that they would hurt until they got broken in. We found a few shops that had sneakers like hers, and I tried several on. Naturally, it was the most expensive pair that immediately felt terrific, even in my decrepit condition. I had no choice. I paid $110 US – ouch, but the relief was immediate and wonderful. My feet were still a mess, but they weren’t going to get any worse. The Rockports went into a garbage can.


We then went to a large anchor department store at the mall that had a pretty good pharmacy. We looked everywhere in Merida and couldn’t find the magic Band Aides. We did pick up on some good bandages and various sizes of band aides. The lady pharmacist recommended a liquid antiseptic that she swore by, so we bought that too. 


The young Hispanic nerd at the Apple Genius Bar declared the screen to be nearly dead and, after some research, announced that Apple no longer had replacement screens for it. The laptop could work with an auxiliary screen. To do so, we would have to go into ‘settings’ and change the display settings to ‘2 screens’. To access the display settings, we would have to wait until the main screen would randomly work and then quickly navigate to the proper settings. The plan was to take the laptop back to the Airbnb, turn it on, and if the screen ever came back on, go into settings and make the change. If that happened, we’d return to the store and buy an HDMI cable to hook it up to the big flat-screen TV in the Airbnb.


Before returning to the Airbnb, we found a Denny’s-like Mexican restaurant and had sopas and fluentas and fruit juices. All was yummy. We rode a taxi back to the Airbnb. Dr. Wanda worked on my feet with the new supplies. The shoes were a huge improvement, and I was beginning to appreciate the light slippers-like feel. I will never buy leather Rockport hikers again.


Being Thursday and feeling smug about my new shoes, we attended the evening concert at Parque Santa Lucia at 8 pm. Then we went to the hip bar scene called Mercado 60 on Calle 60, just a couple of blocks from the Parque. Mercado 60 is a collection of small restaurant bars surrounding a large patio under a roof. Thursday night was rock’n’roll night with live music starting at 9:30 pm.


Wanda figured out that Uber operated in Merida. She downloaded the Uber app on her phone, and we ordered an Uber taxi to go to the Parque. It worked great and only cost something like 30 pesos ($1.60 US), and since you prepay with a credit card, you get the best exchange rate and no haggling.


I don’t know if Uber is good or bad. It is about half the cost of a regular taxi in Merida. Is it putting hard-working cabbies out of business? That would suck, but it does give other people a chance to make some money, of course, without any benefits, not that Mexican cabbies get any benefits. And there is that goofy co-founder of Uber, Travis Kalanick. With all the negatives aside, the Uber system utilizes technology-to-the-max to provide a modern, insanely efficient, inexpensive public transportation system. And my feet appreciated this. Regular taxi companies should incorporate Uber’s software efficiencies.


The concert in the Parque was awesome. They had the same big Mexican swing band and costumed dancers as last Thursday, but they had a different Mexican nylon string guitar quartet this week. They were also terrific, utilizing intricate Latin rhythms, great solos, and tight vocal harmonies. As good as this lead guitar player was, and he was good, last week’s guitarist was crazy great.


So far, we had heard nothing but extraordinary musicians in the Yucatán. We weren’t prepared for how horrible the rock’n’roll band at Mercado 60 was. They started about 45 minutes late, which wasn’t so bad, noting how horrible they were.


Curiously, they pointed their vocal speakers at themselves, like stage monitors. Consequently, the audience could barely hear the vocals. The guitar player was terrible. The drummer and bass players were OK at best. The keyboard player was the best player and knew it as he dominated the band, hogging all the vocals, and his keyboards were way too loud. They had a very cute girl singer that should have been out front singing some lead vocals. From the little I could hear of the vocals, she was a pretty good singer as well as a looker. Instead, they had her tucked in behind the drummer, and she only got to do some occasional backup singing.


With the band being a disappointment and the drinks being on the expensive side, we decided to pack in. Wanda conjured up an Uber taxi, and we returned to the Airbnb. 

My feet hurt so much that the only photo I took all day was our breakfast - PITIFUL.

DAY 21, Friday, February 23, 2018


FIX FEET DAY; AIRPORT DRY RUN; LIGHT SHOW


My new shoes were great, but my feet were still tender. We decided to lay low today and let my feet heal a bit. The antiseptic that the pharmacy lady swore by worked wonders. We will have to figure out a way to get it back home with us. 


The laptop plan didn’t quite work. The screen did come back on for a few minutes, but when I went into the display settings, there wasn’t a place to enter the second screen. Now what? 


We Ubered back to the mall to consult with the Genius kid. It turned out that you need to have the HDMI cable plugged into the second screen for the 2nd screen option to come up. The kid hooked up the second screen, but the laptop screen wouldn’t cooperate. Somehow, he figured out how to blindly go through the menus without the screen working and set the menu to ‘2 screens’. Just like that, the second screen popped on. Unbelievable. We bought the HDMI cable and thanked the kid profusely. 


We returned to the pharmacy in the mall and bought a variety of band-aide sizes to better fit my multiple sores. With these errands completed, we Ubered back to the Airbnb to hook up the laptop. Sure enough, the big flat-screen TV worked like a charm. Wanda could at least work on her travel journal while I lay up for one more day. I practiced my guitar.


Bored silly by mid-afternoon, I hobbled, with Wanda in tow, to the bus stop two blocks away to catch the circuitous metro bus to the airport. I thought it would be interesting to see how the airport was laid out so that when we flew out, we knew where everything was. And if we decided to use the bus to get to the airport, we would know how long it would take and where to get off, etc. The airport was tiny but very modern. We learned that we wouldn’t need to get there all that early. Everything was laid out nicely, with easy access to the ticket desk, the security check, and the gates. It was worth the 8 pesos for the bus trip, and we got to see different neighborhoods.


We took the bus back to Paseo de Montejo and then summoned an Uber to Café Pop for Nachos. They were as good as we had hoped. I had read in the Yucatán Today magazine that they have Mayan ball game reenactments every Friday evening in front of the cathedral next to the Plaza Grande at 8 pm. So, after we finished eating at Café Pop, we walked the two blocks to Plaza Grande. My feet, with the new shoes, big bandages, and miracle antiseptic, were holding up surprisingly well. 


At 8 pm, the street in front of the Cathedral was blocked off, and chairs were set up. However, instead of the ball game reenactment, a light show using the Cathedral as a huge screen was presented. It wasn’t a historical show like the one in Valladolid was supposed to be. It was kind of a psychedelic light show. As cool as the light show was, I had my heart set on the ball game reenactment. 


After the light show, we walked up to Mercado 60 to see what kind of band they had for Friday. The band, late again, was just starting to set up, and we didn’t want to wait. Not wanting to push my feet any farther, we Ubered back to the Airbnb.

The vibrant downtown Merida.

The amazing light show on the side of the cathedral across from the Grand Plaza.

The downtown night life.

DAY 22, Saturday, February 24, 2018


ONE MORE FOOT REST DAY


We stayed in until 1 pm while Dr. Wanda redressed my foot. It was improving nicely. Wanda kept dreaming of finding those magic Hydrogel Band Aides. She reasoned that if she could just find a big enough pharmacy like CVS or Walgreens back home, she could score. Yesterday, on our bus trip to the airport, she spotted what she thought was a large pharmacy near another Walmart. 


Skeptical, I reluctantly gave in. We took the circuitous metro bus to the pharmacy she saw yesterday. Yes, it had nice big signage, but that turned out to be deceptive. The store itself was dinky and had no magic Band Aides. We walked a block or so to the Walmart to see how it compared to the Walmart near our Airbnb. It was newer, and it had a few different items in its pharmacy section, including some nicer band aides, but still no magic Band Aides.


We then took two metro buses to get to the colectivo area to hunt for a colectivo to Izamal for tomorrow. Izamal is a designated Magic Town by the Mexican government. Magic Towns are special small towns that are unique in some way. Izamal is famous for being the Yellow City; that is, all the downtown buildings are painted yellow. There are also some Mayan ruins there.


We were getting good at this bus thing. It took two connecting buses, which we easily found, to reach the colectivo area. Once we found the Izamal colectivo, we hunted for the colectivo to Chixulub. Chixulub is a beach town next to Progreso.


Chixulub has the distinction of being the point of impact of the dinosaur-killer asteroid some 65 million years ago. We hoped that there was a good beach at Chixulub, as we wanted one more ocean beach day before we left. We have seen Chixulub colectivos driving on the streets, so we knew they existed. We checked all the colectivo areas from the Noreste bus station area to the Market area to Parque San Juan. We saw tons of colectivos going in every different direction to lots of different towns and villages, but none to Chixulub. 


It was getting late, and colectivos thinned out around 4 or 5 pm. Plus, we were getting hungry, so we gave up the search and walked to another restaurant recommended by Yucatán Today, Los Trompos. We ordered steak tacos, which ended up being a pile of steak carved from one of those rotating Gyro-like rotisseries with melted cheese and mushrooms, along with the typical stack of hot tortillas. This time half of the tortillas were flour, and half were corn – a nice touch. Of course, we also got a bunch of wonderful sauces, including what I believe was a Mayan achiote sauce. The meal hit the spot.

A gorgeous pink building.

We love paletas.

A Kiwi-Strawberry paleta.

Above and below: Supper at Los Trompos.

Across the street from Los Trompos was a tiny plaza with a bench. We sat down to digest our food a bit, and then Wanda ordered an Uber to take us back to the Airbnb. The Uber driver quickly sized us up and put on some Beatles music. I have noticed that the Uber drivers in Merida listen to great music. 


The Uber app gives out lots of interesting info on the drivers. It tells you their name, the color and make of their car, where the car currently is, how long it will take to reach you (it even has a map showing the car’s progress to you), and how many rides the driver has racked up. Many of these drivers have given many thousands of rides. 


When we reached the Airbnb, Wanda discovered that she left her backpack on the plaza bench. Somehow, we communicated this to the non-English-speaking driver. He took us back. The backpack was still on the bench, and we were re-dropped off at the Airbnb. I slipped the driver a100 pesos, and he seemed pleased.


My foot was improving, so we made plans for the rest of the vacation: a trip to Izamal (which will be tomorrow); a return trip to Homun to snorkel the Cenote Tza-Ujun-Kat and eat at the Las Palmas restaurant; go to Celestun for the beach and flamingo boat trip; and finally, check out Chixulub to see if there is a beach there.

Dave and Wanda

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