Fixes, Fjord, Ice and Outport

1830, Sunday, July 9, 2023

Last night, when we returned from three hours of hiking and exploring, I noticed the bilge pump run briefly. I happened to be at the stern and saw greenish liquid coming out. So, this morning, before leaving, we checked the fresh water cooling system. It was very low. Prowling about we discovered a coolant leak in a hose fitting at the bottom of the sail locker below the reservoir. Things are never in an easy place when doing fixes on a boat. But, an hour later the fix was complete.

Our second issue of the morning came next. We started to hoist our anchor and chain using the windlass, The windlass fuse blew. It too was in a bit of an awkward spot. We replaced the fuse and the day's second fix was complete.

Now we were on our way, motoring out the magnificent fjord of Fourche Harbour and Williamsport where we had anchored for the night. (see photo above).

Once outside we turned and motored northward. A low cloud ceiling drifted down like a moist shroud while the wind remained calm. At times the fog would lift as a tease and then drop again.

The icebergs are numerous on this section of the coast. We have to remain ever-vigilant. At times they appear out of the fog like a ghostly wraith, other times the sun burns the fog off and the light reveals the stunning blues within the ice. Some bergs have congregations of birds in great numbers. In one case, the birds took flight as they sensed a change in the berg, Below are some ice photos and below that, a brief description of where we are tonight. Read on...

Tonight we are tied to the wharf in the tiny fishing outport of Conche, nestled between a couple of fishing boats. Crab season is still running and the small commercial cod season will open again soon. Conche is a town of the "French Shore" of Newfoundland. It is a small town of about 125 people. The population is shrinking and the school has closed; kids are bussed to a neighboring community.

This outport still has some of the feel of old Newfoundland before the cod fishery collapsed. Small sheds and fishing stages still line the waterfront; each one with a little cross upon the door, perhaps a symbol of a prayer for fisher folk working upon the sea.

I have been wondering about ice conditions in Labrador. The pack ice has been slower than usual to recede and icebergs are more numerous. We chatted with two local men who came by the boat for a visit. One of them knows a fellow who works on the freight boat that serves the Inuit communities in Labrador. He called his friend and got us an update on ice to the north; he thinks we should be good to go!

Below are a few Conche photos, including our two evening visitors.. Thank you for following the voyage!

Bill